Seven moles, mezcal, and craft villages in Mexico's culinary heartland.
Best months to visit
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Oaxaca City is compact, colourful, and one of the best places to eat in the Americas. Its markets overflow with chocolate, chapulines, and chillies, and surrounding valleys produce mezcal, weaving, and pottery.
Late October and early November bring Día de Muertos, the city's most atmospheric time but also its busiest. The dry season from October to March is ideal for exploring.
Ideal stay
4–5 days
Budget
$ · Budget-friendly
Currency
Mexican peso (MXN)
Language
Spanish, plus many indigenous languages
Main airport
Oaxaca (OAX), ~25 min by car
Good for
Food, mezcal, crafts, festivals
The full guide
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When to go
Dry season (Oct–Mar)
Sunny days and cool nights; Día de Muertos around 31 Oct–2 Nov.
Hot season (Apr–May)
The hottest, driest months.
Rainy season (Jun–Sep)
Afternoon showers and green hills; Guelaguetza festival in July.
Suggested itinerary
Day 1
Santo Domingo church and the Ethnobotanical Garden tour, then the 20 de Noviembre market's grilled-meat hall.
Day 2
Monte Albán ruins in the morning, then a cooking class focused on mole.
Day 3
Tule tree, Teotitlán del Valle weavers, and a family mezcal distillery.
Day 4
Hierve el Agua's mineral springs and petrified waterfalls.
Day 5
Jalatlaco neighbourhood's street art and cafés, and a mezcal tasting in the evening.
Where to stay
Centro
Walkable, close to the markets and churches.
Jalatlaco
Quiet, cobbled, and colourful.
Xochimilco
Residential and calm, a short walk from the centre.
Getting around
The historic centre is walkable. Use taxis or organised tours for Monte Albán and the valley villages, or colectivos (shared taxis) for a cheaper option.
What it costs
Very good value. Market meals and street food are cheap; boutique hotels cost far less than in Mexico City. Prices rise sharply around Día de Muertos and the Guelaguetza.
Good to know
Book Día de Muertos accommodation months ahead.
Take a warm layer — nights are cool at 1,500 m altitude.
Sip mezcal slowly; it is meant to be savoured.
Travel information changes often. Prices here are rough guides, and transport, opening hours, and
entry requirements can change without notice. Confirm details with official tourism sites,
operators, and your government's travel advice before you book, and travel with suitable
insurance.
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